There are several different ways to accomplish this task, like most everything else in life. There is a right way to do things, and what some guy on the internet says.

A leap in technology has turned original methods of barrel break-in that were once set in stone into a cloud of ash.

Fast forward to today. The latest method works for several reasons; in this article, “How to break in a barrel in 2 simple steps,” I am explaining how and, more importantly, why?

Who taught me this process?

Instead of name-dropping, I will state that I learned this technique personally from multiple reputable/pro shooters (they all mimic this process). Put it this way: if you melted all the medals, they have won down. You would probably have enough raw material to build a new competition rifle.

Here is how to break in a barrel- 2 simple steps

Step one:

Use new brass and a fire-forming load—typically, two grains of powder under your last barrel’s match charge weight.

Take your first shot.

Safety tip:

I avoid positioning my body directly behind the firearm in my first round through any new rifle/barrel. That way, if something is amiss, I don’t end up going off like a Christmas tree every time I go through airport security. Don’t jam the bullet!

Step two:

Repeat step one 99 more times, then clean your barrel. “Seriously, that’s it!”

Here are the current scientific reasons for this method.

First:

Your barrel will change velocity the first 80 to 100 rounds. This is due to fire polishing; everything inside the barrel is smoothing itself out during this time.

The smoother it is, the less resistance the bullet encounters traveling down the barrel, which equals a change in velocities.

Tip:

It is not recommended to start load development during this period. What your load would be before vs. after break-in will not match.

Second:

The chamber’s throat area tends to erode at a higher rate of speed in the first 100 rounds, and after that, it will become more stable. No, I’m not a metallurgist, but the shooter who tested and taught me this certainly is.

Third:

You are fire-forming your brass to blueprint your new chamber. Again, your specifications of a new case vs. fire-formed will be different, and that will later assist you in correctly setting up your FL die.

The general rule of thumb is, “a new barrel, new brass.”

Fourth:

You can get your rifle’s optic set up. True, you won’t get a 100% zero until after load development, but at least you will be off to a good start.

Suppose you read my rifle scope series. Almost all of those processes can be accomplished during this time.

Fifth:

Have some fun and do some shooting. Any trigger time is time well spent.

This method will work with any barrel. Also, you don’t have to use good bullets or powder—no need to use the good stuff for this, especially with what’s going on these days.

That’s all there is to it. Certainly not as complicated and much less intrusive as it used to be. Not only that, there is a reduced chance of accidentally damaging your barrel from over-cleaning.

I’m sure some will say doing this is a waste of time, but to each their own. Being a pro shooter, it’s rare that I get trigger time and do not feel like I’m on the clock.

This method works well for me, along with the company I keep. I hope you have enjoyed this article as much as I did the half of a pot of coffee I drank while writing it.

Before you ask: I only use BRUX Barrels. They have supported me from the start, and I never had a barrel that didn’t shoot.

Disclaimer: Reloading/handloading can be hazardous to your health like many things in life. You take full responsibility when performing these procedures. 5 Gun Nation is not liable for your decisions. Don’t be an idiot, and if you are, it is not our problem. How to break in a barrel-like a pro

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